[rmartin]

I would like to know, how to remove rear axles from my CJ2a so I can replace bearings and seals, and does anyone have an idea on how to move seats back in order to get my knees out of my chest and off the dash.

[Tim Dolan]

Hi and welcome. You need a hub puller to start. It is the ONLY tool that will remove the hub from the end of the axle. Bolt it to your studs and pound the arm until it comes off. Can be very stubborn. Next unbolt the axle flange bolts which are evident. The axle will pull right out. Do not lose shims from thqat flange as lash is important. Good idea to measure it again after replacing bearings,etc.
The seat is immovable. Best bet is to leave original mount and weld a movable track on top to have some adjustment. But what is the fun of a Willys if you can't have originality? I am 6'2" and have never found it to be a problem. Good luck and visit often to keep us posted.

[F Bill]

Safety note on hub puller.. Pull the axle cotter key and the large nut, then reinstall the large nut backwards and tighten it up till it touches the hub. Loosen it a few turns, THEN install the puller. If you do not have the nut there when using the puller (three legged, attaches to wheel studs using original lug nuts) and the hub comes loose, it might fly off the end of the axle into your soft parts, not a good thing at all. The loosened nut acts as a safety so it won't fly off.

If you still have stock seats, the only thing you can do is to run less padding in them and maybe bend the backs a little bit rearward. The 3A used a shorter wheelwell by an inch or so, and those seats were made to be farther away from the wheel. Some folks notch the 2A wheelwell and lengthen the seat. Not something I would do to a rare or unusually valuable jeep but for a driver it is not the end of the world. Do a google search for fat boy conversion for jeep seats, you may find pics as there are several places on the web that talk about this problem.

If you have aftermarket seats, most are cushy lil buggers with lots of padding to get in the way. Go back to a stock style seat or one with less padding.

[rmartin]

Tim Dolan, on 04 May 2011 - 12:49 PM, said:

Hi and welcome. You need a hub puller to start. It is the ONLY tool that will remove the hub from the end of the axle. Bolt it to your studs and pound the arm until it comes off. Can be very stubborn. Next unbolt the axle flange bolts which are evident. The axle will pull right out. Do not lose shims from thqat flange as lash is important. Good idea to measure it again after replacing bearings,etc.
The seat is immovable. Best bet is to leave original mount and weld a movable track on top to have some adjustment. But what is the fun of a Willys if you can't have originality? I am 6'2" and have never found it to be a problem. Good luck and visit often to keep us posted.

[rmartin]

Thanks for the information, I am doing a brake/bearings all the way around. The front was no problem. I was a bit hesitant to start jerking on any component without being sure of what will happen. My "48" is original with exception of a home made grill made of heavy steel. As far as the seats, well it's about time I lose weight anyway.
By the way, do you know of an up to date (if such a thing) manual on a 2a that shows details on disassembly of things? I work better with pictures (LOL)